Brilliant Break in Belfast

Some would say November is not a good time for travelling and sightseeing in the northern hemisphere. I disagree! Just back from five days in Belfast. Despite it being grey, wet and coldish every day Karen, Rachel and I had a fabulous time. We made the most of the daylight hours available and then rewarded our efforts with a drink or two at a pub.

On Saturday we found our way around the city and scoped out what there was to see and do. This is a picture of the continental market in front of City Hall. In the background you can see the whale. Sorry, I mean the wheel. It's just the way the Irish pronounce it had both Rachel and I searching for a whale. As darkness descended we found our way to the Crown Liquor Saloon - a very ornately tiled watering hole. We'd planned on just the one. However, some Scottish blokes we bumped into shouted us a few rounds and then invited us to their friends 40th that they were in town for that evening. After dinner Rachel and Karen put in an appearance. I was in need of sleep after our early start to get to the airport.

On Sunday morning we headed out for undoubtedly the coldest 'Hop on - Hop off' bus tour I have done this year! After previous experiences (mostly with Mum) I went prepared with scarf, gloves and woolly hat. Oh, and my camera too. We enjoyed live tour guides whose commentary we understood most of the time. The tour took us to Stormont (Parliament Buildings). It was deserted and unlike all other tourist destinations I have visited it was not at all difficult to take photo's without random strangers walking through. In case you're wondering that is my friend Rachel in the picture below. I have it on good authority that Stormont is much more impressive than the White House.

Other sites of interest included the wall murals on Shankill ...

and Falls Roads.

Having survived the cold it was time to seek out the next pub on the list of places we should visit in Belfast. It was a difficult decision. We sat by the river, near Waterfront Hall and next to 'The thing with the ring' or 'Nula with the Hula' while we deliberated.

On the shortlist was McHughs. Eventually chosen as it was closest (like a 5 minute walk, if that) to our current location and advertised live music on Sunday afternoon. Shortly after making ourselves comfortable at a table, Guiness in hand, the acoustic two-piece band launched into a Crowded House number. I wonder if they spotted the patriotic attire of my friends? A few drinks later, following a chat with one of the musicians we had our second invitation in two days. Both Paul and Iggy were playing gigs later that evening. As Iggy's gig was at the pub around the corner from our B&B we said we would pop in later on. So, on the way home after dinner we did just that.

On Monday the weather was still not smiling on us. It was another earlyish start to pick up a rental car. After a slight disagreement over whether we had paid for it online and a trip to the nearest internet cafe to print out a receipt we boarded the little Nissan Note. Where I come from the word receipt is used when you have PAID for something. We couldn't believe the rental guy had the cheek to suggest we print out our bank statement to show it had been paid for. As we had made the booking less than 48 hours ago, on Saturday afternoon, this was ridiculous. Everyone knows it takes UK banks an age to process transactions, minimum 3 business days before they are likely to appear on any statement. Needless to say, Karen the banker and I, got our way eventually.

First stop was the CS Lewis statue we had heard about on the bus tour. Our combined navigational skills took us directly to the site and the biggest challenge was to find a park.

Then we headed north out of the city on the Coastal Causeway route. We had our second stop just north of the city at Carrickfergus Castle. Then we continued on up the coast. Next stop was lunch at Ballycastle. I was keen to see the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. Unfortunately we were a few weeks to late to actually be able to cross it as it is removed over the winter due to safetly issues pertaining to high winds. Still worth the stop and will be easy to find next time.


Around 3pm we reached our main destination - the Giants Causeway. A World Heritage Site with endless photographic potential. A shame my camera was low on batteries. We made the most of the remaining hour or so of daylight snapping away. The first place we had been in our travels we it was more of a challenge not to have a random stranger in the picture. However, not impossible.

Again, lack of light cut short our exploring. This is a place with plenty of potential for walking too! What could we do but visit the pub - the Causeway Hotel was closest. Ordering drinks, Guniess again, at the bar we got chatting to a couple of guys. Again, I think perhaps we were noticed by the patriotic clothing of my companions. But then again, there was only one other couple in sight. Turned out these blokes were Kiwi. Turns out one of them is the drummer for Op Shop. They were on their way to Dubai where the band is playing at the Kiwi Ball after the 7's this weekend. They were totally unaware that Crowded House were playing in Belfast the following evening. After experiencing such hospitality from people over recent days it was our turn to reciprocate and Rachel promptly suggested they try and get tickets. After an exchange of numbers we hit the road. Only one quick stop on the inland route home - at Ballybogey. I will leave it to your imagination the type of photos that we took here.

On Tuesday we had arranged for one of Rachel's friends and her fiance (a Northern Irish local) to take us to the heartland. We piled into the back of their tiny rental car and buckled up for the ride. We did a lap around Loch Neagh stopping at a cemetary to view one mighty old Celtic cross. Then it was off to Tommy's family farm for lunch. His parents have a newish house which is one of eight or nine in the lane. All belonging to other family members - aunts, uncles, sons, daughters etc. After lunch we borrowed gumboots and went for a walk through the moss. Lots of fun with Suzy the dog.

It was a bit of a race to get back to Belfast for dinner before the concert but we made it. Had a brilliant time at Crowded House. The kiwi blokes we met on Monday got in with free tickets and we stood with them and also Paul, one of the musicians we met at the pub on Sunday. Rachel got pretty close to Neil Finn, maybe three rows back. We settled on being about 5 metres from the stage and not jam packed in.

As you can tell we had a busy five days. But we didn't fly home til late afternoon on Wednesday so had time to visit Belfast Castle on the northern outskirts of the city. There were conferences, meetings and a wedding on so most rooms were out of bounds. With no other tourists there we had the information centre to ourselves and then enjoyed a selection of scones with cream and preserve in the basement cafe.

Here ends the detailed account of my most recent trip. The last planned for 2007. Til next time good night from Belfast.